Category: Equipment Reviews


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I have been experimenting with LED lights since I decided to light my b-roll material.

(For those who don’t know what b-roll is: from back in the time when we had film/tape and had interviews on an “a-roll,” all the other material was called b-roll. So people walking, actions, everything that didn’t have a spoken word.)

The challenge is that b-roll looks quickly flat and amateurish in a run & gun situation when only ambient light is available. I found this always problematic in my films and didn’t know how to solve this.

Especially with filming people. Did you reallize how different it looks if you are filming a person with a little light thrown into their eyes? Thanks to Judah Lazarus from Highline Productions who made me aware of this flaw.

Now, how can we bring lights into run & gun b-roll shooting? The problem is always set-up time, finding an outlet, and having a lamp that is light enough to carry around but has enough light to light the scene. That has changed since Litepanel invented the LED (I hope they did). The crux is that Litepanel LEDs are ridiculously expensive. Around $1700 for a light of the equivalent of less than half of the power of a Kino Flo Diva that I really favor.

I really wanted to find a solution and I started to shop around. There are tons of offers for LED lights on Ebay. Mostly from China. So I ordered this one here for $380:

Screen shot 2011 03 14 at 9 36 32 PM Screen shot 2011 03 14 at 9 36 46 PM

When I received the kit it was nicely built, at first glance. Metal enclosure, solid stand shoe. After a couple of hours the light started to flicker when I turned the dimmer dial. I tried all kind of MacGyver fixes but none was successful.

I contacted the seller and had a long exchange with him.  He said he would just send the dimmer part free of charge and I could just exchange it on my own. I declined since I didn’t feel comfortable with this light anymore. Who knows when this dimmer would break again if it had already broken so quickly? Thank G-d the seller refunded me the full amount minus the shipping. Well, at least…

CLLED600BlueCm LED600BackNoBatCm

My next research brought me to two campanies here in the US who sell LEDs and are always sold out. They’re called FloLight and CoolLights. I searched in the forums, and most of the people had good experience with CoolLights. So I ordered the coolights LED 600. Wow, the package was impressive. You’ll get a whole lot of stuff for your buck. A bag, barn doors, four different gels to convert this daylight LED into tungsten, a diffuser and a stand adapter. Everything is built nicely, even the bag wasn’t a cheapo one. Really impressive. Then I turned the LED on and the light looked great, a bit greenish but they put some magenta gels with it in order to compensate and to reach more 5600 K (the color temperature for daylight).

The next day I had my shooting and it went well. At the end of the day the light started to flicker. You couldn’t see it with your eyes but when you looked through the cam you would get these weird flicker stripes. I emailed Richard from CoolLights and he detected that the dimmer was broken. He sent a new dimmer from China and I could just install this. After 3 weeks the dimmer arrived, I installed it into the fixture and the stripes disappeared but the dimming experience was not good. It started to turn on, off, on off, the light intensity jumped around like crazy. Everything you wouldn’t want for a shoot. So, I asked if I could return this for a refund and Richard agreed to take it back. FYI the Coollights and FloLights (that I didn’t test) are all variations of the China models. They might be modified, but essentially they are all built and manufactured in China.

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Heavily disappointed about all that, I bought the small, pretty expensive Litepanels Micro Pro for $370. You have to understand. The above ones were pretty big lights for light stand usage. This one is a small, flimsy, on-board camera light. But the reviews promised strong light output and I wanted a little light just for creating the great eye reflection that Judah suggested to me.

It came two days later and though it was plastic, but it felt very well-built. I turned it on, and after a couple of turns on the knob, it would increase the light evenly up to its maximum output. I was impressed by the power, the great accurate 5600K, with no green tint. It comes with two sizes of tungsten gels and a diffuser, a camera ball to mount on top of the cam and a great bag to fit it all in.  It’s powered by 6xAA batteries; this makes it super-handy if you need to exchange them.

Now I have been shooting with this Litepanels LED for quite some time and it didn’t change a bit. Not the dimmer, not the bulbs etc. Everything is as it was delivered. To sum it up: yes, it’s very expensive to have LEDs in your kit but whoever needs light, strong, battery-efficient lights doesn’t even need to look into the cheapo alternatives until they all get their act together. I’m sure one day someone will find the right ‘ingredient’ for a good LED for a good price. Till then I’m sticking with Litepanels and will get one of the bigger ones soon. I’ll let you know how they come out. One thing is for sure. They are, at this point, the industry leaders, and I read that many stations have ordered them for their studios.

It’s only a matter of time until small production booths catch up with this new and exciting technology.

S.

P.S. I bought also a small on-board LED light for around $70 from China that was just a disaster and I didn’t want to waste my time on this. All in all, I had three different LED lights that all broke after a very short period of time. So, if you need LEDs go with Litepanels. Well worth it if you do this for a living.





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In my previous posts I have raved about Sigma, Canon and Co. It’s interesting how things change along the way. I think nothing changes more then the approach with lenses and therefore its important to find your own way. What fits you, your budget and shooting style.

When I was searching other people’s work I wondered, how do they get the image so sharp, so tangible, so 3D? And I’m not talking about the new 3D-cameras. I’m talking about an image that has something sculpturesque to it.

I always looked over to the Zeiss lenses but found them unaffordable. Then I came across the great DSLR handbook from here and I saw the section about adapters and Zeiss lenses. I was really intrigued. I was not encouraged enough to “waste” my money and try out the Zeiss lenses for Contax/Yashica mount with an adaptor ring to make it fit to the Canon DSLRs since there were a couple of drawbacks.

I recently signed a contract where the client had very high expectations. The contract afforded me the ability to invest in a new set of lenses. I gave it a shot and followed the advice in the DSLR handbook. I went ordered the Zeiss 50mm 1.4, the Zeiss 85mm 1.4 and the Zeiss 25mm 2.8 plus three adaptors to make them fit for the EOS.

I went out shooting for the OU and came back with the footage and the first time ever I observed the thing I had been looking for for so long: Sharp eyes of my interviewees. Yes. Really sharp and crisp eyes. Really knacke sharp.

Not just that. The whole picture rendition in terms of color and contrast are …. are just very different. I can’t really explain that. It blew me away. I read that Zeiss is famous for this indefinite color rendering that people tried to explain but failed totally to make sense.

I encourage you to test it out. Start out with the 50mm that you can get for a good price. I think it’s an excellent lens.

Let me know what your experience has been with lenses in the comments below.






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I’m in the middle of five productions that  are due within three weeks. I know, just this by itself is crazy. But what if your hard drive with all the video files dies out of the blue? You get a shock and hopefully you will survive this. Thank G-d I did. What exactly happened?

I was editing on my G-Drive and all of the sudden I heard this click noise. 10 minutes later, boom, unmounted. I couldn’t get it to run anymore. So, I took the hard drive case apart and tried all kinds of amateur MacGyver tricks. But nothing helped.

I figured I needed to try to run the disc in a new enclosure. I ordered the Blacx Duet where you can swap internal SATA drives. It was delivered the next day and I could transfer all the files to my new disc. Thank G-d it  worked out but I lost two very valuable days.

Now, what did I learn from this? I learned that not only do I have to backup all my project files. I also have to come up with a backup strategy for the video files in case a time sensitive project is endangered because of a hard drive crashing.

Here is what I do now:
I want to work from fast drives so therefore I use G-Drive. They deliver best results in the AJA Kona System Test. All my project files are on one G-Drive, backed up by a timemachine hard drive from Western Digital. For my 2TB G-Drive video scratch disc I put a cheaper, slower but reliable Western Digital hard drive just for backing up the 2TB G – Drive. I use the outstanding and free Carbon Copy Cloner software and set up a scheduled backup plan for every day so that I have all my drives mirrored. Once it’s set it will do the task every day without my having to lift a finger.

Now I have a full backup of everything in my pipeline. In case one of the drives crashes or completely dies I can just transfer the files onto a new G-Drive, from my backup and within an hour I’m ready to get running again.
I know that there are many other strategies out there, different RAID configurations. This seems to me idiot-proof, and since disks are not expensive anymore, it’s a no brainer.

What  do you do in order to prevent the worst?

S.




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Did you also have the experience that you charge batteries ahead for, for example, your audio gear like the Zoom H4n or Sennheiser Evolution lav mics, and rechargeable batteries die really quickly? What about the scenario where you have charged everything, and five weeks later you get a phone call last-minute for a shooting gig in 2 hours and you have no time to recharge the batteries and you go on location with half or even uncharged batteries? This happened to me a few times. But now there is an end in sight.
I found these amazing batteries from Sanyo. They are called ‘Eneloop‘. You can get a bunch for $20 at Amazon. Not only do they last a heck longer they also preserve their charge of 80% capacity within a year. That is just unbelievable and unheard-of.
BTW, in Germany I went to a special shop in Berlin that sells only batteries, really you can buy everything related to batteries and chargers only. He told me that Sanyo is the best company for pro batteries and I found this to be true.

Try them out.

One last thing: there is a rumor that Apple’s new battery-charger and AA batteries are also from Sanyo.

Shmuel




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Here is the second part of my lens buying strategy. If you missed the first part here it is.


I bought three more lenses to my lens kit: The Tokina 11-16mm f2.8, the Sigma 30mm f1.4 and the Canon 70-200mm f4. I think I covered now the most important ranges a DP would need in order to get various jobs done in video production. Here is my opinion about each of them.

I’ll start with the widest lens. I got the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 and I think its one of the best lenses I had so far. Super sharp, love the wide angle it produces and has a great pseudo 3D effect when you are panning because of the distortion effect it creates. Its excellent for indoor or real estate shots where you need wide lenses to show the entire room. But also I use it if I want to bring the subject and its surrounding into more context. The only thing I would want is weather sealing on it. I had a couple times rain going on and wasn’t really sure how much the lens would take. The price tag is $599 and I think its a steal.

Now the Sigma 30mm f1.4. It has a similar characteristic in colors and sharpness then the Sigma 50mm f1.4 (test here). I use it a lot for outdoor documentary shots following a subject for example since it has a wider angle then the 50 mm. You can control how much shallow depth of field you want (an variable ND filter is necessary for outdoor shots in order to shoot wide open and stay at 50 fps).
The color tone is very creamy and excellent for portrait shots (what I love the most as you know) and its extremely skin friendly especially wide open since its not super super sharp and adds a slight softness that my feminine talents very much prefer. If I want more kick I stop down to f2 and get the full sharpness of the Sigma. Regarding the weather proof I’m as much concerned as I am with the Tokina. It seems that the only company that is weather sealing lenses is Canon. So I hope one day they will follow. The price of around $450 is ok. I think you get a good lens for your buck.

The last one is my Canon 70-200mm f4. One of the best lenses in the market. It was rated in many tests of one of the best lenses produced by Canon. And I agree. The sharpness is unmatched, none of the others can hold up, the bokeh is fabulous especially for interview shots, though you have to shoot further away from the talent. I shot now most of my interviews with it since it cuts out the background and leaves a blurry color background around the talent. I used it also in a lot of sport shots where I couldn’t get close enough onto the subject.
So, you might ask why I didn’t choose the Canon 70-200mm f2.8?
First, its way lighter then the f2.8, its half the price. Most of the time I use it outside so I don’t need the extra f – stop because to shoot indoor the angle is too tight for getting the subject into the frame.
What I really miss is the IS image stabilizer. I think if you have the cash invest into the Canon 70-200 f4 IS with the stabilizer. Its twice as much but worthwile for shooting handheld. The version without IS you hardly can use it handheld. Now the best thing is that since its an L lens of Canons lens series (the top category) it is weather sealed. That means when you put a UV filter in the front its totally water, rain and dust proof. I can tell from my own experience having shot recently on a water banana boat and got wet all over the place. My 7D and the L lens where absolutely fine after the shooting. So, its true. Its working.

Shmuel

Some samples from the real world projects:

Sigma 30mm f1.4

Sigma 30mm f1.4

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

Canon 70-200mm f4

Canon 70-200mm f4






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LENS BUYING STRATEGY AND REVIEW, PART I

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Many of my videomaker friends asked me: Shmuel, what lenses are you using and what kind of buying strategy are you doing?

I made the mistake to buy lenses where in the end I had overlapping zoom ranges. For example I owned the Tokina 12-24mm f4 and the Canon 17-40 f4. The difference was just 5mm range and therefore I sold the Tokina.
After this little accident I wanted to find a strategy to choose the right lenses and being able to plan for future purchases. And I came up with the following idea.

First, I wanted zoom lenses for my kit but they can be pricey especially the f2.8 ones. I decided to go with L lenses that have f4 instead of the f2.8 ones since they are lighter and smaller. The problem is that they are not great for low light. So, the question appears should I invest into f2.8 lenses that are twice as expensive and very heavy on top of it?
I realized its better for me to have the f4 lenses and invest the money I saved in light sensitive primes like the 50mm f1.4 and the 30mm f1.4. Even with the expensive f2.8 lenses I wouldn’t get too far in low light so why not switching in low light situations completely to primes and take advantage of their strength?

Canon 17-40mm f4
Canon 17-40mm f4

The Canon 17-40 f4 is a very versatile lens. I use it when time is of the essence for example in documentary shootings and I have enough light available. Its sharp, it has great colors, its well built (its even weather and dust sealed, I got an UV filter in order to have max. protection), zoom and focus are easy to use. The color rendering has a tendency to be more cold, more technical. I love this lens and shoot with it a lot. What I miss is an image stabilizer in this lens that would add to the video capabilities enormously.

Sigma 50mm f1.4
Sigma 50mm f1.4

The Sigma 50mm f1.4 is right now my favorite lens. The coloring and way how it portraits people’s faces is outstanding. The color rendering has a bit of a warm touch, its very sharp, even at 1.4 its absolutely usable. Now, people will ask why not the Canon 50mm f1.4? The Sigma is also around $150 more expensive. As the dpreview.com test shows its sharper then the Canon. Not only that I specifically love the bokeh (the way how the lens renders the unsharpness of the background). Its more round then in the Canon due to its 9 aperture blades. I love shooting portraits and interviews with it.

I have just ordered the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 and the Sigma 30mm f1.4 from whom I heard that they are legendary lenses. As soon as I land in the US and have them in my hand I will test the lenses and give you a review on them.

Shmuel





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ZACUTO Z-FINDER EYEPIECE FIX

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Zacuto Z-Finder Fix by Shmuel Hoffman
Eyepiece Fix for Zacuto Z-Finder

As I wrote in my last Zacuto post my eyepiece fell of in a run-and-gun situation and how generously Zacuto replaced it for no charge. But its still anoying that there is no fix for this particular problem. I’m not sure if the new generation has it fixed.
But for everybody who has the 2G Z-Finder here is how I fixed it.
Take the Z-Band and put it through the loopwhole on the plastic housing. Then I drilled a little hole into the eyepiece and pulled through it the other end of the Z-Band. You just need to find a spot where it doesn’t bother you when you look through the finder. For me it was the upper right side of the eyepiece.
So this is now really working well and I hope Zacuto fixed that in the new version or if not takes the idea and perfects it.

Shmuel





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Pro Lighting for Your Cinematography

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Kino Flo System Diva 400
Kino Flow Diva400


My friend Micha Smith aproached me: Hey Shmuel, I’m shooting some interviews. I would like to try a Kino Flow, can you tell me more about it?
Inspired by that question I decided to talk about it here.

Sample 2
Light position left


Most of you know that I’m a huge fan of the Kino Flow system. Introduced by my relative Danny Schneor, a commercial cinematographer he taught me how to use these lights.
So, why Kino? First its a cold light, that means its not getting very hot. At the same time it doesn’t need huge electricity power what can be an issue if you have to plug a couple of lights at the same time into the same electricity system. But foremost I use them because of the image quality. In cinematography its not the cam (see commercial shot on a $500 camera) its not your expensive gear. Its always the light.
Kino Flos are carefully developed by cinema people for cinema people. Wherever I go onto a big production set I see Kinos being used. And for a good reason. They look just beautiful. They kind of imitate the softness of daylight, they are very gentile to the face and create gorgeous reflections (see car commercials). That’s why you see them so often used for beauty and product shoots.

Lit from the right side
Light position right

So, Micah asked me, how do I use them.
Very simple. You first make a decision if you want to light flat or contrasty. Flat means everything is lit evenly. No shadows what so ever, in photography thats also called high – key. I prefer to light more contrasty in order to give the illusion of a 3D feeling on a 2D canvas. That means that 90% of my interview shots the subject will have a brighter and a darker side in order to create the illusion of depth.
As you can see in the above picture I positioned the light on the right side so that the left one would almost entirely would fall into darkness. I often make sure (if there are no glasses present) that the eye in the shade is a little bit lit so that we can see both eyes. The viewer tends to focus on peoples eyes in order to create emotional response.

Sample 3
Light position above


If you have someone with glasses and you don’t want to see reflections in the glasses then you have to move the light either above the subject or so far to the side that the light beams in a 90° angle towards the face/glasses in order to eliminate the glare. The subjects face will be lit more evenly when having the light hanging above since both sides of the face get the same amount of light. On a sight note. Do you see the little light reflection in the eyes? Thats always wanted. I can’t even explain why. Only try out a picture without the reflection and one without. It seems to me that the reflection brings the subject alive.
Let me know if you have other tips about lighting.

Shmuel




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Camera that was used for Production

Lumix LX3 camera used for production


In November last year I flew to America in order to do a production for Aish Center NY. It was an amazing experience. I love Rabbi Harris from Aish Center NY and his family, they are very warm and fun to be around. I wanted to bring Aish’s video to a new level and promised Rabbi Harris a visually stunning video. I used to work with the Panasonic DVX100 that I’m still thankful for all these wonderful years it has served me. But time goes ahead and so too technology.

Production Shot 1
Production Shot 1

My plan was to shoot everything on a DSLR from Canon. To my disappointment Canons announced 7D camera was not yet available when I was in the states. So, what should I do? I had with me my DVX100 but how could I keep my promisse to deliver a visually stunning video?
I called my friend David Blumenfeld (Website) and he gave me the tip to try out the point and shoot photo camera Panasonic Lumix LX3. A $450 cam. I knew he shot incredible pics with it for Newsweek and WallStreet Journal. But Video?


I went ahead and did my first trials with this camera and the quality just knocked me off. From this footage I created NY’s People:


I shot all the b-roll material (what is not interviews) with the point and shoot cam and all interviews with my DVX100 because of its sound capabilities. I have to say, sound on the LX3 sucks. But if you record sound separately its an amazing work around.

Productions Shot 2
Production Shot 2

Productions Shot 3
Production Shot 3

In post production I would convert the footage into Apple Pro Res LT because the footage is hard to edit (needs a lot of rendering in order to play in realtime). A friend of mine asked me how I did the jump cuts in the interviews. I just resized the image in Final Cut and zoomed a bit in. But had to be careful not to do it too much because otherwise I would get artifacts in the image.

In the end everybody liked the movies a lot and we got a lot of compliments. I’m especially glad that it worked out because it was a bit of a risk since I had no experience with High Definition and this particular camera. But one thing I observed in life the best things happen if they are improvised.

Shmuel





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I Heart NYC

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So I’m loving living in Jerusalem, but I must admit, not a day goes by that I don’t miss New York a wee bit. Of course I couldn’t travel with Shmuel when he flew there to film for the NY Aish Center before Rosh HaShanah, because I was due any day (see the last post for more on that). But ohhhh, was I jealous!

This video is Shmuel trying out his new camera, which is, from what I understand, a high-end still camera with video capabilities. He sold all of his old equipment at B&H and then scoured the city to try to find this one last Panasonic Lumix LX3 that had not sold out. These are the awesome images he caught with that camera to create a beautiful moving-still portrait of NYC. Gotta love the music by Cat Power too (props, of course, to Frank Sinatra).




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